So you've got a brilliant vision for a skincare brand – innovative products that address real skin concerns and leave customers glowing their brightest glow. But with countless ingredients on the market, selecting the right ones to feature in your skincare brand can feel overwhelming. Fear not, aspiring beauty entrepreneurs! We're here to help you to navigate the exciting world of skincare ingredients and so that you can make informed decisions and choose the perfect ones for your beauty brand.

Step 1: Know Your Niche and Target Audience 

The foundation of your featured ingredient lies in understanding your target audience and the specific skincare needs that you'll be addressing. Here are some questions that you should ask yourself when it comes to choosing key ingredients to feature for your product marketing: 

• Who are you targeting? What skin concerns do they have? Where do they live? 
• Are you targeting people who are seeking anti-aging solutions? 
• Are you targeting those that have sensitive skin and acne concerns?
• Are you targeting younger users that have oily or acne-prone skin? 
• Are you targeting people who live in drier climates? 

If you're targeting the older generations with mature skin, you may want to feature more moisturizing, and anti-aging ingredients in your products. Likewise, if you're targeting the younger generations with oily or acne-prone skin, you may want to feature more sebum-controlling, acne-fighting ingredients in your products. Choose the ingredients that are known to solve a skin problem that is commonly experienced by your target audience. 

Just as the saying goes, there is not one solution that fits everyone's skin. Sure, there are multi-purpose powerhouse ingredients such as niacinamide and retinol that targets a wide range of problems such as hyperpigmentations, acne scars, wrinkles and fine lines, dryness and lack of elasticity, etc. But there are also a group of people who are allergic or hypersensitive to these ingredients, and they may be looking for other options. If you're looking to solve this niche, you may want to incorporate several gentle ingredients that could work synergistically to solve these problems. 

Read more about How to Find Your Niche in the Beauty Industry. 

Step 2: Do Your Homework and Research on Cosmetic Ingredient Trends 

Once you're clear on your niche and the skin concern that you want to solve, now it's time to look into the trends of the cosmetic ingredients that are known to solve this problem. 

Let's take this for an example: you're targeting Gen Zs with sensitive skin and acne concerns, and you've found that centella asiatica is one of the most effective ingredient that calms sensitive skin and inflammations. Next, you could take a look into the most popular products that feature this ingredient, and see what other features they have that might have contributed to their success. Below is an example that we presented during one of our past online webinars on cosmetic ingredient trends. The centella asiatica trend started in Korea since 2015, with Dr. Jart's Cicapair rising to global popularity in 2016. Subsequent launches such as IOPE's Derma Repair Cica Line further developed their centella asiatica formulas to include Hinoki Cypress Extract and Panthenol, to target enhance the product's anti-inflammation and hydration functions. Other brands like Dr.G, Bioheal and Innisfree also proceeded to develop their centella asiatica formulas with additional ingredients such as TECA (titrated extract of centella asiatica), Centella Biome, retinol and ceramide. 

For more information about some of the ingredients we covered, read them here: snail mucin, niacinamide, adenosine, vitamin C, exosomes

As you can see, the VT Reedleshot 700 that has gone viral in early 2024, is not the first of its kind in the market. In 2021, Centellian24 (developed by Dongkook Pharmaceutical) released the first ampoule featuring spicules coated with TECA (titrated extract of centella asiatica) instead of centella asiatica extract, unlike the VT Reedleshot 700. A little bit more search into the differences between TECA and centella asiatica extract (aka cica) shows that centella asiatica extract exists as a general extract from the plant, which contains a variety of other beneficial compounds. This results in a possibly variable potency as the concentration of the active ingredient can vary depending on the extract process and source of the harvest. On the other hand, TECA is standardized extract focused on specific active ingredients like asiaticoside, madecassoside and asiatic acid (all of which are extract compounds from centella asiatica extract). This standardization results in a more uniform composition of the active ingredients across different batches, ensuring consistent results. 

Read more on the Top 5 Ingredients for Brighter and Glowing Skin.

Step 3: Decide on Ingredient Concentrations

Now, this step is optional. But if you have a specific marketing point that you want to use, for example, you want to claim something like the "highest concentration in the market", or even if it's not the highest, you want to demonstrate that your product has enough potency to deliver the results to your customers, then you may want to take this into consideration when formulating your next skincare product. 

Additionally, it's important to consider this aspect from the start before you dive into the world of manufacturing, because it takes time to create a formulation sample. To save everyone's time, it's best to mention upfront during the initial consultation so that we can prepare your sample starting from your specified request. 

Read more on the Importance of Ingredient Concentrations in Skincare Formulation.

Do take into account that some ingredients have an established range due to safety and stability reasons, so if you're not experienced in this area, it may be wise to leave it to the experts. 

Step 4: Understand the Typical Manufacturing Process Involved

After speaking to so many Korean skincare manufacturers, we're able to boil down the typical cosmetic manufacturing process for the custom formulation route:

• Formulation R&D: Developing the initial prototype from scratch, at the same time testing the formulas to make sure they are safe for use 
• Fine-tuning: After testing out the samples yourself, the manufacturer adjusts the formulation based on your feedback
• Production: Once you've given the green light, production can commence 

This sounds pretty straightforward, but in reality, to create a new skincare formulation from scratch actually takes a lot of time, especially when you're still shopping around for manufacturers. Imagine this: each manufacturer will have to schedule separate meetings with you to understand your needs before beginning the R&D, and some of them charges a certain amount of R&D fee. It takes immense effort to reach out to each and every manufacturers that you've shortlisted, and it will take a longer time to finally get all the samples you need to test, and in some cases, this process can take up to a few months or even a year. 

That is why, working with a manufacturing platform like MAYK helps to save A LOT of time, so that you can get your products out to the market as soon as possible, making sure you don't miss out on the current beauty trends. Furthermore, you get to save a lot of upfront costs as you don't have to pay several manufacturers for a sample, you just need to pay the platform that collects samples for you. At MAYK, we have a vast network of Korean cosmetic manufacturers, and since we're experienced, we know which manufacturers make the best candidates for a certain product. 

Read more on the 5 Things to Know Before Manufacturing Cosmetics.

If you're not into creating a new formulation due to a limited budget, it doesn't mean you cannot join the beauty business game as well. There are private labeling options where you can leverage lower MOQs and the manufacturer's expertise to your benefit. Private labeling offers a fantastic alternative to developing a product from scratch. Here's how it can benefit you:

• Cost-Effectiveness: By leveraging a manufacturer's existing formulas, you can bypass the high costs of research and development. This allows you to launch your brand with a lower minimum order quantity (MOQ), making it easier to manage your initial investment.
• Reduced Time to Market: No need to spend months perfecting a formula. Private labeling allows you to choose from a wide range of existing, high-quality formulations, accelerating your time to market and getting your products into customer hands faster.
• Manufacturer Expertise: Benefit from the knowledge and experience of established cosmetic manufacturers. They can guide you through ingredient selection, packaging design, and regulatory compliance, ensuring your product meets all safety standards.
• Focus on Your Brand: With the product formulation taken care of, you can dedicate your energy to building your brand identity. This includes developing a compelling brand story, designing eye-catching packaging, and crafting a marketing strategy to connect with your target audience.

Read more to Understand the Differences Between OEM vs. ODM. 

Step 5: Consider the Collaboration Style with Your Manufacturer

The way you collaborate with your manufacturer can significantly impact your private label or custom formulation journey. Here's how to find the ideal fit:

Full Control vs. Streamlined Process: Do you crave complete creative control over every aspect of the product, or are you open to working with a manufacturer's existing formulas and expertise? If speed and efficiency are your priorities, consider a turnkey manufacturer. Turnkey solutions offer a comprehensive package, handling everything from formulation to packaging and labeling. This can save you significant time and resources, allowing you to focus on brand building and marketing.

Open Communication is Key: Regardless of your chosen collaboration style, prioritize open and transparent communication. Choose a partner who is comfortable answering your questions and openly discussing potential challenges.

Flexibility for Growth: As your brand grows, your needs will evolve. Look for a manufacturer who can adapt and scale their services alongside you. A turnkey solution might be ideal for your initial launch, but as your brand establishes itself, you might desire more control over the formulation process. Choose a partner who can accommodate your changing needs.

Learn more about Turnkey Manufacturing Solutions here.

Still on the fence? Reach out to us for a quick chat to understand more about cosmetic manufacturing before diving into it altogether!