Ingredient Concentrations in Skincare Products: Why More Isn't Always Better

If you've been thinking about creating a skincare product to sell, I'm sure you've come across this question as well –  how much of an ingredient should be included in your formula? You could also be thinking about marketing your product as the one with the highest amount of xyz ingredient, but... is it really that important? At MAYK, we often receive questions about skin care ingredient concentrations. Especially during the formulation R&D stage, where we would receive requests to adjust concentrations for one active ingredient in the formulation samples, but frankly speaking, that is an unproductive step that only creates unnecessary delays and lengthens the whole skin care manufacturing journey. In this article, we'll explain to you the reasons why we think so. If you've been wanting to customize and tweak ingredient concentrations in your product, read on. 

Less is Often More

While including the right skincare ingredients is crucial, it's important to understand that higher concentrations of ingredients don't necessarily translate to better results for the skin. There's a common misconception that a higher concentration of active ingredients in skincare equals faster results. But the truth is, achieving optimal skincare results is about finding the sweet spot – the most effective concentration that delivers desired skincare benefits with minimal irritation to the skin, and that is our goal as skin care manufacturers. Think of it this way: just like a potent medication, some active ingredients have a dosage range for best results. Too little might not be enough, but too much can also backfire, causing skin irritations like redness, dryness, peeling or even allergic reactions, and this depends on skin types as well. Some people with sensitive skin types may not even tolerate actives at all or may only tolerate a lower concentration. 

While some products, like moisturizers, benefit from a higher concentration to create a thicker, more occlusive barrier, sometimes active ingredients are most effective at relatively low concentrations. For example, vitamin C works best at a concentration of between 8% to 20%. That means serums with vitamin C concentrations below 8% are likely to be ineffective, while those above 20%, their effectiveness tapers off as it can lead to irritation and instability. 

Synergy is Key

A well-formulated product is about the harmonious blend of ingredients, not just the quantity of one.  A lower concentration of a key ingredient can be perfectly effective when supported by other complementary ingredients. For example, vitamin C can be more effective when paired with vitamin E or ferulic acid, which may help with stabilizing the vitamin C. 

There are also other forms of synergy, where one ingredient plays a crucial supporting role in ensuring another ingredient delivers its benefits. For example, humectants like hyaluronic acid or glycerin attract moisture to the skin, while occlusives like shea butter or squalane (note: squalane is considered semi-occlusive) work to create a barrier that prevents humectants from escaping. Without these supporting players, even the highest concentration of hyaluronic acid might struggle to deliver its full potential. 

No Significant Effect on Sensory Characteristics 

During the skincare custom formulation process, many of our clients request for slight adjustments to the concentrations of active ingredients. They do this for a variety of reasons, for example some of them wants a skincare product that works faster to deliver results. However, it's important to note that simply changing one skincare ingredient's concentration might not significantly alter the product's texture, which is a also common misconception. In fact, slight adjustments during sample revisions often have minimal impact on the product's overall performance, which is one of the reasons why we recommend against revising concentrations during the sampling stage. 

Instead, focusing on the sensory experience and key ingredients is more productive. If the face serum is too sticky or watery, or if you want to add a stronger scent, or a brighter color to the face cream, you can do let us know during the feedback round. If you have a certain key ingredient that you want to promote your skin care products with, let us know during the initial consultation, and specify the concentration level if you have one in mind, so that we can start formulating your skin care product with that condition in mind. 

Safety is Important 

There's a misconception that applying a product with a higher concentration of an ingredient (like 10% of ingredient X) automatically means 10% gets absorbed by your skin.  People often forget that in reality, your skin's main job is to act as a barrier, keeping things out. So, applying excessive amounts of skin care product won't magically increase its effectiveness as well. While some skincare formulators aim to get ingredients absorbed deep into the skin, there are concerns about this approach too. Korean skincare manufacturers often prioritize gentle methods. This is because harsh penetration enhancers in the formula, which disrupt the skin barrier, can cause irritation in the skin. Additionally, there's a question of what exactly gets absorbed by the skin. Does it include only the beneficial ingredients, or are the penetration enhancers absorbed as well? Furthermore, is it desirable for topical skincare to enter the bloodstream? Wouldn't that essentially make it a drug rather than a cosmetic product, subject to stricter regulations? This also brings us back to our first point - sometimes less is more because that is the concentration level that your skin considers safe, and hence your skin does not react with a breakout or an irritation. 

Another safety aspect to consider is the safety of the whole formula. Once a formula has been created, it requires safety tests to ensure that its mixture of active ingredients is safe for application on the human skin. As such, tweaking the concentration levels of a key ingredient pushes the reset button on the whole formulation process, prompting a re-test concerning the new formula's safety. As a result, this creates even more delays to the manufacturing process, preventing you from getting your beauty product to market quickly and successfully. 

Good Things Take Time

Now that you know having a high concentration of an ingredient in a product does not always lead to good skincare results, what then is important in order to achieve maximum skincare benefits? Consistency. Just like a regular exercise regime that brings better results than sporadic workouts, consistent use of skincare products is key to achieving maximum skin care benefits. Even if the skin care product has a lower concentration of the key ingredient, it's better to provide the active ingredient consistently throughout the skin's cell cycle to achieve results, rather than risking damaging the skin barrier with high concentrations of active ingredients. 

Knowing What You Want from the Start

To create a truly exceptional product in the most efficient way without wasting your resources, it's important to come to MAYK with a clear vision. Here's how you can prepare for a successful partnership with us:

Identify your key ingredients.  Do you have hero ingredients you want to feature in your skincare product? Knowing this upfront allows us to begin formulation research and development (R&D) with these ingredients in mind. 

Focusing on ingredient concentration for marketing impact? If you envision a skincare product with a high concentration of a specific ingredient—such as 20% niacinamide or 5% glycolic acid—it’s essential to communicate this during the initial consultation. This ensures we can begin formulating and conducting safety testing with that concentration right from the start. Transparency here is crucial. Making false claims about ingredient concentrations not only undermines customer trust but can also lead to regulatory issues. If you intend to make a specific marketing claim, such as highlighting the concentration of active ingredients, it’s important to discuss it early in the custom formulation process. This way, the product can be developed to meet those claims, backed by accurate testing and data.

However, if you don’t have a specific concentration or claim in mind, there’s no need to worry. Our experienced manufacturers are well-versed in determining the optimal concentration for each ingredient to achieve the desired results. They know what works best in terms of efficacy and safety, allowing you to rely on their expertise to craft a high-performance product that meets market demands.

MAYK's Custom Formulation R&D Process

Our custom formulation service allows you to have complete control over the details of the skincare product. 

1. Get Started: Simply submit an inquiry and pay a one-time R&D fee of $199 (for one product) to kick off the formulation development process.

2. Tell Us Your Needs: Before your consultation, fill out a quick form to help us understand your vision and preferences. The form consists of information such as the key ingredients and the key effects you want your product to have. 

3. Expert Consultation: Based on your form responses, our team will have 1:1 consultations with you, to make sure you understand the full process, as well as the possible costs involved in creating your dream beauty product. 

4. Sample & Revise (Free Once): We'll send you a custom-made sample based on your detailed requests. Feel free to provide feedback on the texture, scent, and appearance (color, etc.). One round of formula revision is completely free!

5. Fine-Tuning (Optional): If you need further tweaks after the free revision, additional revisions can be made at $69 per revision. We'll continue this process until you're completely happy with the formula.

6. Production Ready! Once you give the final thumbs-up, we'll move on to production, bringing your dream beauty product to life.

Ready to start custom formulating your next beauty product?

Open an inquiry with us to kick start your manufacturing journey!